Seeking a gay-friendly urban jaunt that's south of the border?

Our neighbors have naked male dancers, mariachis trying to win you over and Frida's old digs

For history and culture, check out Palacio de Belles Artes.

MEXICO CITY When one thinks of vacationing south of the border, beachy resorts like Cancun and Puerto Vallarta come to mind. But away from the playas azules (blue beaches) is Mexico City, an overlooked party and cultural destination.

In the 1300s, this interior center was called Tenochtitlán, the heartbeat of Aztec civilization. It has a newer abbreviated nickname, D.F. (Distrito Federal). And with an estimated population of 13 million, Mexico City is the country's most liberal metropolis, having recently enacted civil unions. Because Mexico's national capitol is so huge, y'all should regard your safety just like any big city. Mexico City is slowly overcoming its reputation as an urban nightmare of crime: So be alert at all times!

Sizzling gay nightlife
Gay bars, restaurants and cafes that were once closeted now thrive in La Zona Rosa (the pink zone). La Zona's main gay crawl is Amberes Street, where you can grab copies of Homópolis and Ser Gay to check the nightlife listings.

Check out Papi Fun Bar, a hipster hangout with big windows, to view the often-eccentric urban hubbub like the sidewalk near Papi, which is often crowded with the under-18 kiddies who can't club hop.

Next door is The Pussy Bar, a lesbian pub that's also connected to La Gayta: Both nightclubs are hopping and popping, especially on weekends.

Also in La Zona is the El Taller disco and Tom's Leather Bar: Both joints feature nude male dancers (no women allowed).

gay STREET SCENE: Papi Fun Bar is great for people-watching in La Zona.

Getting around
The widespread subway system, El Metro, only costs 20 cents a ride. Peseros, small busses, also abound. However, if you hire a taxi, use hotel taxis or have the hotel staff call one for you. It may cost more, but it's more secure.

Don't know where to go and haven't done much research? Hop on the Touribus, a red, open-top double-decker. For 100 pesos ($10), one can travel all over the city, getting off and on at various locations. Board at the south side of Ángel de la Independencia (The Angel of Independence), and pay when you get on board. The top-deck panoramic views are a must. But wear sunscreen or you'll look like a broiled lobster at the end of the day. Summer temperatures range in the mid-70s during the day and mid-50s at night.

Dining and culture
Near La Zona are Condesa and Polanco, gayborborhoods filled with sidewalk restaurants and caf?s. Polanco has most of the art galleries, world museums and expensive boutiques. For fine dining in Condesa, try Fona Garufa or Mama Rosa's, both are on Michoacan Street, great for strolling while listening to talented buskers.

For superb exhibits, check out the Palacio de Bellas Artes (Palace of Fine Arts), which is in the central historical district. The palace walls are filled with M?xico's famous muralists: Rufino Tomayo and Diego Rivera.

For an evening jaunt, visit the Plaza Garibaldi where Mariachi musicians sell their talents for weddings, parties and quinceañeras. As they serenade prospective clients, the bands vie for attention like boasting roosters.

Near the Plaza Garibaldi on República de Cuba Street are two macho-men gay cantinas: Viena and Oasis. Both cater to the moderate-income working class vaqueros. Don't leave without ordering the tequila.

Pay a visit to the home of M?xico's most famous bisexual, Frida Kahlo. Located in the bohemian neighborhood Coyoacan, the Casa Azul (the Blue House) is museum that is also filled with Frida's personal effects

Where to stay
Hotels in the Zona Rosa can be costly, but you can find moderate lodgings near La Zona's glitter. Hotel Posada Viena located on Marsella Street is walking distance to La Zona and the Metro. Also on Marsella Street is the men-only 6m9 Guest House. Both Viena and 6m9 have WiFi. Even without a computer, Mexico City is flush with Internet caf?s: cost is usually 10 pesos ($1).


This article appeared in the October 19, 2007 edition of the Dallas Voice.